We love linen for its cool feeling, the texture that comes from the slubs in the yarn, and its beautiful drape. We use linen across our collections, in knits as well as in woven fabric.
OUR LOVE OF LINEN
Linen is one of our favourite fibres, accounting for around a third of the fibres we use annually.
We love linen for its cool feeling, the texture that comes from the slubs in the yarn, and its beautiful drape. We use linen across our collections, in knits as well as in woven fabric.
Each season, working closely with our long-standing suppliers, we develop new and unique linen fabrics by changing weave structures and experimenting with colour combinations and dyeing methods. Recently, we have created some amazing linen fabrics by over-twisting the yarn. Once the high-twist yarn is woven into a fabric and laundered, the fabric acquires a more textured surface and an incredible drape. One such fabric is the beautiful dogtooth linen we use for dresses, trousers and jackets. Although traditionally a summer fabric, linen increasingly features in our autumn and winter collections in heavier weights or layered under a sweater or jacket. Recently we have combined wool and linen in a new twill weave that has warmth from the wool and texture from the linen, perfect for casual, softly-tailored pieces.
We love linen for its cool feeling, the texture that comes from the slubs in the yarn, and its beautiful drape. We use linen across our collections, in knits as well as in woven fabric.
Each season, working closely with our long-standing suppliers, we develop new and unique linen fabrics by changing weave structures and experimenting with colour combinations and dyeing methods. Recently, we have created some amazing linen fabrics by over-twisting the yarn. Once the high-twist yarn is woven into a fabric and laundered, the fabric acquires a more textured surface and an incredible drape. One such fabric is the beautiful dogtooth linen we use for dresses, trousers and jackets. Although traditionally a summer fabric, linen increasingly features in our autumn and winter collections in heavier weights or layered under a sweater or jacket. Recently we have combined wool and linen in a new twill weave that has warmth from the wool and texture from the linen, perfect for casual, softly-tailored pieces.
| “Cultivation of flax requires very little water & few chemicals or pesticides” |
A brief history of linen
Thanks to its suitable climate, European cultures have been using linen for thousands of years.
The oldest known linen was found in prehistoric caves in Georgia dated to around 36,000 years ago. Other known artefacts made of linen have been found in Swiss lake dwellings from 8,000 BC. In ancient Egypt linen was used for mummification and fine linen was seen as a symbol of purity and wealth. In fact, linen was so valuable in ancient Egypt that it was even used as a currency.
Linen continued to be an essential part of the clothing industry for centuries, with Belfast the world leader during the 19th century. However, during the industrial revolution the automation of the production of cotton fabrics led to a reduction in the usage of linen. Production of linen continued to fall during the 20th century as cheaper synthetic fibres were developed. From 1961 to 2000, the land used for growing flax fell from two-million hectares to just 450,000 hectares. Sadly, due to its relatively high price, linen has become a rare commodity and now accounts for less than 1% of clothing produced worldwide.
Thanks to its suitable climate, European cultures have been using linen for thousands of years.
The oldest known linen was found in prehistoric caves in Georgia dated to around 36,000 years ago. Other known artefacts made of linen have been found in Swiss lake dwellings from 8,000 BC. In ancient Egypt linen was used for mummification and fine linen was seen as a symbol of purity and wealth. In fact, linen was so valuable in ancient Egypt that it was even used as a currency.
Linen continued to be an essential part of the clothing industry for centuries, with Belfast the world leader during the 19th century. However, during the industrial revolution the automation of the production of cotton fabrics led to a reduction in the usage of linen. Production of linen continued to fall during the 20th century as cheaper synthetic fibres were developed. From 1961 to 2000, the land used for growing flax fell from two-million hectares to just 450,000 hectares. Sadly, due to its relatively high price, linen has become a rare commodity and now accounts for less than 1% of clothing produced worldwide.
How linen is made
The constituent material for linen fabric is the cellulose fibre found in the stems of flax plants. Flax seeds are planted during the cooler part of the year and are harvested once the stems have turned yellow and the seeds are brown.
After harvest, the flax seeds are processed through a machine that removes the leaves and seeds. The fibrous outer stalk is then separated from its soft, woody interior by a process known as retting.
Next, the decomposed stalks are broken up, separating the unusable outer fibres of flax stalks from their usable inner fibres. To accomplish this, the flax stalks are crushed by rollers then rotating paddles remove the outer fibres from the stalks.
Now that the inner fibres are separated from the other fibres, they are combed into thin strands.
Once the fibres have been combed, they are ready for spinning.
To spin flax fibres, these short, combed fibres are connected with devices called spreaders, and the resulting strings, called rovings, are then ready to be spun.
After being spun on a spinning frame, the resulting yarn is reeled onto a bobbin. To ensure that the yarn doesn’t fall apart, it’s necessary to perform this reeling process in wet, humid conditions, and the spun yarn is run through a hot water bath to further ensure yarn cohesion.
Finally, the finished yarn is dried and reeled onto bobbins. The yarn is then ready to be dyed and made into textiles.
The constituent material for linen fabric is the cellulose fibre found in the stems of flax plants. Flax seeds are planted during the cooler part of the year and are harvested once the stems have turned yellow and the seeds are brown.
After harvest, the flax seeds are processed through a machine that removes the leaves and seeds. The fibrous outer stalk is then separated from its soft, woody interior by a process known as retting.
Next, the decomposed stalks are broken up, separating the unusable outer fibres of flax stalks from their usable inner fibres. To accomplish this, the flax stalks are crushed by rollers then rotating paddles remove the outer fibres from the stalks.
Now that the inner fibres are separated from the other fibres, they are combed into thin strands.
Once the fibres have been combed, they are ready for spinning.
To spin flax fibres, these short, combed fibres are connected with devices called spreaders, and the resulting strings, called rovings, are then ready to be spun.
After being spun on a spinning frame, the resulting yarn is reeled onto a bobbin. To ensure that the yarn doesn’t fall apart, it’s necessary to perform this reeling process in wet, humid conditions, and the spun yarn is run through a hot water bath to further ensure yarn cohesion.
Finally, the finished yarn is dried and reeled onto bobbins. The yarn is then ready to be dyed and made into textiles.
